About two weeks ago, one of my new friends, called and asked if I would go to Malta with her. She was supposed to take the trip with her husband, but he no longer wanted to go. They’d already paid for the hotel room and she still wanted to go, so I went. Part 1 of our adventure is here and Part 2 is here.
The second full day of our trip was my birthday…Happy Birthday to me! We planned to go to Mdina and Rabat and possibly head back to Valletta to see the Co-Cathedral. We stopped at the concierge desk to ask about a dinner show we were interested in (it was on Thursday nights only, so we didn’t get to go), so we also asked him what we needed to see and to verify what time the buses stopped running. He was adamant we wouldn’t need to worry about that because there was no way we could spend all that time in Mdina and Rabat (he obviously didn’t know us! We managed to fill the day just fine…and didn’t even make it back to Valletta).
Now for a little trivia about Mdina: the city is completely walled in. In addition to the numerous businesses inside the city walls, there are about 300 private citizens (out of curiosity, I searched for property for sale in Mdina…I found 2: one for 750,000 Euro and one for over 1 million Euro. I don’t even want to think what that is in US dollars!). The only cars allowed inside the city are those belonging to residents. It’s nickname is “The Silent City” and it is indeed very quiet inside the city walls.
Upon our arrival, we were greeted by one of these:
Since it was my birthday, Yvette bought us a ride.
We were supposed to get a 30 minute ride around Mdina and Rabat, however it was 15-20 minutes, at best. We did get a good overview of both cities so we’d know where we wanted to go back to. This is a shot from inside the city and shows what the streets look like. You can see no further than an arrow can fly (at least a medieval arrow) on any of the streets in Mdina.
After our horse-drawn carriage ride, we walked the streets of Mdina. This is the main gate in and out of the city:
Our first stop was a tour of the dungeons of Mdina. The tour was…interesting and reminded me again why I’m glad I was born in the 20th century! The ways they tortured people back then make waterboarding look like child’s play! This is the one and only picture I took in the dungeons (it was full of scenes like this). It depicts the torture of St. Agatha. According to local legend, Agatha was a resident of Sicily, however she often came to Malta to pray. Eventually, she fled Sicily during the persecution of Christians by the Romans. When she returned to Sicily she was imprisoned, tortured and eventually killed. One of the tortures she underwent, was the removal of her breasts.
Our next stop was the Metropolitan Cathedral in the town center of Mdina (you can also see St. Paul’s Square in this picture…yes that’s the ENTIRE square!). The original cathedral was destroyed during an earthquake. This is the rebuilt cathedral and is “only” 400 years old.
I won’t bore you with all the pictures I took inside the cathedral. Following are a few of my favorites.
Part of the ceiling:
The main altar:
Another altar:
The original door to the catherdral:
After touring the cathedral, we decided to have lunch. This time, we’d asked the concierge before we left the hotel for a lunch recommendation. He suggested Fontanella Tea Garden: “You can see half of Malta from there!” And boy was he right!
We had another visitor for this lunch (the food was much better too!):
After lunch, we left Mdina and went to Rabat (which simply means, we walked out the gates of Mdina and were in Rabat!). Our first stop in Rabat was St. Paul’s Church and Grotto. Again, I won’t bore you with all the pictures I took, just a few of my favorites.
Under the church are two chapels. The floor is lined with tombstones (I wish I could remember who’s!).
Also under the church is the grotto where the Apostle Paul is said to have stayed during his time on Malta.
Our next stop was St. Paul’s Catacombs, which were a few blocks away and NOT affiliated with the church. The catacombs are said to house thousands of grave sites and nobody knows for sure how far-reaching they are. The first picture was the first thing you see when you entered the main catacomb. This is where the funeral feast would have been held (elevated cutout to the left).
This is one of the tombs. The head would go in the hole to the right of the picture.
And then the tomb would be covered with a sealing slap similar to the one below. The entire thing would then be covered in mortar to seal it well.
Some of the tombs were seals with slabs similar to the ones below. The pictures are said to depict what the person did in life (in this case, a doctor).
Time has not been kind to these catacombs. Originally, the walls were decorated with paintings, however the walls are completely bare now.
Our next stop was St. Agatha’s Historical Complex (remember St. Agatha above? The one who had her breasts cut off? See I knew you remembered!). The complex consists of a church, museum, and catacombs. The church was closed, but I was able to sneak a picture from the window.
Unfortunately, they did not allow pictures inside the museum or catacombs. They did have some for purchase in the gift shop, so I bought them and scanned them in. These catacombs are remarkably well preserved and you can imagine what St. Paul’s must have looked like in its day (according to our tour guide, St. Agatha’s has always been in private hands, so they were better able to preserve its contents).
This painting depicts St. Agatha. If you look closely, you can see two breasts in the chalice in her right hand. She was often depicted this way in paintings.
The skeleton in this grave was recovered from inside the catacombs.
After we left St. Agatha’s it was time for us to make our way back to the bus. Along the way, I snapped this picture of a row of balconies. Most of the buildings in Malta are the same shade of tan, the only color is in the doors, shutters and balconies (as you can see in this picture).
This building was near the bus stop. I have no idea what it was/is other than the “Casino Notabile” that was carved in the stone around the top of the building. I couldn’t find anything during a quick Google search, either. The building is gorgeous though!
That was day 2 of our trip! Stay tuned for Part 4!




























